Dijon

For market lovers, Dijon Market is one of the best that you will find in France, and certainly the best in Burgundy. Open Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays from early until about 12.30. Built in the 1870's, the Market is a Dijon and Burgundy institution.  Locals gather there not merely to buy the latest products in season, but also to meet and catch up on the weeks events.  Knowledgeable stallholders who take pride in what they sell, willingly dispense advice on how to cook their fare. A small bar provides a mid morning energy supplement. Look out for the cheese counters, organic (en bio) vegetable stalls, an organic bakery, Jean Livera - the snail man, the stalls selling their own herbs fresh in season, and Bresse chicken purveyors.

There is only one artisan mustard maker left in Burgundy - Edmond Fallot.  Their production centre is in Beaune (an interesting visit) however they recently opened a shop in the old quarter of Dijon on Rue de la Chouette, a stone's throw from the market, next to the church Notre Dame de Dijon.  Here the friendly staff will guide you to taste the mustard, and are also knowledgeable about the history of mustard making in Burgundy.

There are a number of good chocolate shops in Dijon, but the one that we like the most is Fabrice Gillotte - a Master Chocolatier, whose shop 21 Rue du Bourg is always full of Dijon locals stocking up on the latest delicacy.

The best patisserie is close to the market - Pierre Hubert  31 Rue des Godrans.  Their cakes, biscuits and chocolates are outstanding.

Apart from the stalls on the market, which are likely to be closed if it is not market day, look out for Fromagerie Porcheret on Rue Bannelier and Le Chalet Comtois on Rue Musette leading to Notre Dame de Dijon.

And if you are looking for an expensive gift for your Burgundy wine making friend, there is a Hermes at 6 Place Grangier.

For a less expensive gift but with the same theme in mind, try artisan jewellery maker Firouza, in the small village of Reulle Vergy, just behind Gevrey Chambertin. Two former employees of Cartier have set up their own artisan manufacturing operation in an idyllic spot, on the side of the Hill of Vergy https://www.firouza.fr/ and they will make items to order, if you wish with a Burgundy theme. And just slightly further into the hills, there is an excellent pottery at Route de Chevanne 21220 Detain et Bruant - the Poterie de Bruant 00 33 3 80 61 42 50

BEAUNE

The Hospices de Beaune is in the centre, just behind Place Carnot.  It is a beautiful 15th century building with a remarkable roof structure.  The interior, which is now a museum, is set out as the working hospital which existed from 1452 until the 1970’s. It is one of France’s main tourist attractions.

Just opposite the Hospice is a wonderful wine paraphernalia shop called Athenaeum, which sells wine, but more interestingly, every book, map or other modern wine artefact to do with the wines of Burgundy. 

For mustard, there is only one place to shop, from the place where they make it - Moutarderie Fallot, the last artisan mustard maker in Burgundy. A tour of the factory is informative and fun, followed of course by a mustard tasting, from an attractive modern boutique, with helpful and friendly assistance

Behind the new Market Hall is Place Carnot, the town’s main square, with a good selection of cafes, patisserie, and an excellent cheese shop Fromagerie Hess, 7 Place Carnot.  Beaune is an affluent town, and this is reflected in the presence of elegant boutiques

To the west of the Hospices is the Cathedral Notre Dame, and just in front of the Cathedral is the wine producer Joseph Drouhin, and their caves are some of the oldest in Beaune.  They offer an excellent visit followed by a tasting of their wines.  Patriarch also occupy ancient cellars, as do both Bouchards – Aine, and Pere et Fils, and all are worth visiting time permitting. All of them sell their wines, but one of the best shops for buying the wines from small artisan producers, with good professional help, is Mes Bourgognes at 13 Rue d’Alsace. For Whiskies and Spirits, head to the shop of that name, at 3 Rue de L’Enfant.

Beaune is an attractive walled Medieval City and its ancient buildings within the walls are still largely in tact.  After Paris, it is the next most visited city in France, and Nicolas Rolin and Guigone can take much of the credit for that.  The Tourist Office can be found on the circular road around the town, in a building which also contains the Musees des Beaux Arts.